Dismal and Joyful

Dismal and Joyful
Dismal Swamp through Elizabeth City, where we visited with Joy, Cole, and Jim!

Thursday, November 7, 2013 -- Next on our social calendar was a dinner date in Elizabeth City on Saturday, Nov 9, with Dorothy's niece Joy Hampton, her son Cole, and fiancé Jim Cole.  Elizabeth City is on the ICW route south.  From Norfolk, there are actually two ICW routes south, the Virginia Cut route (the busier / more travelled route to Coinjock) and the Dismal Swamp route, which ends at Elizabeth City.  We planned to leave Norfolk on Friday, taking the Dismal Swamp route, staying over at the North Carolina Welcome Center mid-way, and getting in about 2 pm on Saturday.  However, it came to our attention Wed evening that the Great Bridge Lock of the VC route was unexpectedly closed for repairs, and might be for some time -- and furthermore, rumor had it that hundreds of boats were queued up at the Deep Creek Lock in the Dismal Swamp, and that boats were setting out from Norfolk and returning, unable to get through.  Dismal!

Thursday morning we were considering all options, including going offshore (which would unfortunately bypass Elizabeth City), as we really had to be moving south -- the weather was getting colder, with more northeasterly storms, and we had a couple more benchmarks to make further south.  We had the brilliant idea that, rather than planning based on rumor, we could call the Deep Creek Lock Master and find out exactly what was going on down there.  He said he had locked through 30-odd boats the day before, including an extra opening, but today he only had three boats at the 8:30 am opening, and currently had two waiting for the 11:00 am opening.  Maybe this was because it was raining, who knows, but it seemed wise to go asap.  I said, "we're on our way, see you at the 1:30 pm opening!"  We quickly organized ourselves and got off at about 10 am.  (Moral of the story: Always get the facts yourself!)

There are two locks to go through in the Dismal Swamp route.  The first is about 10 miles in, Deep Creek Lock.  In the Deep Creek Lock you drop about 8 feet.  Below is the boat in front of us in the lock (Beaugolais,  owned by Mike and Thelma Churcher, from Nova Scotia, who we enjoyed wine and hors douvres with that night):

Boat ahead of us in Deep Creek Lock, upon entry and tie-up

When the water floods into the lock, it is fairly turbulent, particularly for the boats in the front of the lock.  Those boats need to hold their sterns in, or the flooding water will push the stern out and drive the bow into the side of the lock.

Water flooding into Deep Creek Lock

Boat in front of us in Deep Creek Lock, after rising about 8 feet

We took the photo below from well below-grade level.  The Dismal Swamp Canal goes back to 1805.  Gliding along through the canal today is quite bucolic, far from dismal, but it was dug by hand by enslaved workers with shovels, working and living in truly dismal conditions, we imagine.

Dismal Swamp Canal historical plaque

Many cruisers sign the side of the lock as they go through.  We added our info to the rest, above the high water mark.  It would be fun to see this again in May (if we come through this way ... who knows!?!).

Recording our presence on the lock wall.  s/v means "sailing vessel."

Lockmaster Robert Peek is a treasure-trove of knowledge about the locks and the history of the area.  He also has a surprise talent, which he demonstrates in a short youtube video made by another cruiser transiting the Deep Creek Lock.

Immediately after the lock, there is a bascule bridge that must be opened for the boats coming out of the lock, which Robert races down the road to open:

Bascule bridge after Deep Creek Lock

And then ensued a lovely glide down the canal, in beautiful fall colors:

Fall colors along the dismal canal

Fall colors along the Dismal Swamp Canal

with the occasional ICW mile marker along the way:

ICW mile marker 12

In the Dismal, you need to take care to look up at the canopy, as well as eying your depth sounder.  Otherwise, the top of your mast could tangle with overhanging trees!

Looking back at trees overhanging the canal

The water in the Dismal Swamp is a tea color due to the tannins in the water:

Tea-colored water in Dismal Swamp area

We reached the North Carolina Welcome Center just before dark Thursday evening, in time to raft up with seven other boats for the night.  There is room for four boats along the wall -- any more than that need to raft up.  Robert Peek told us that as many as 47 boats had rafted up there for the night.  Fortunately, cruisers are big on "help the other fellow"!    

Boats rafted up at the North Carolina Welcome Center

Friday, November 8, 2013 -- While at the Welcome Center, I visited the Dismal Swamp State Park, which has a nice trail system (18 miles of trails!).  Below is a photo of one of many examples of a pool of water at the base of a fallen tree:

Dismal Swamp State Park -- water below fallen tree

The canal was serene and beautiful in the early morning:

Early morning mist rising on the Dismal Swamp Canal

Boats heading out from Dismal Swamp Welcome Center in the morning

At the end of the Dismal Swamp Canal, you go through the South Mills Lock, where you do the reverse of the Deep Creek Lock -- ie you drop back down:

Dorothy on the bow in South Mills Lock

After the canal, there was about three more hours of motoring down the Pasquotank River to Elizabeth City, five boats more or less in a line (two had left earlier in the morning than we did).  Elizabeth City is very friendly to cruisers, providing free dockage, bathrooms, even bicycles.

Aviva at Elizabeth City free dock

Saturday, November 9, 2013 -- On Saturday, Fred biked to the local farmer's market stand and then to the grocery store, and Dorothy hit the sewing shop and gallery of local art, nice town to visit, but best of all, of course, was dinner with Joy, Cole, and Jim at Montero's.  Joy et al kindly picked us up at the waterfront and drove us to dinner.  Joy used to work in Elizabeth City, very handy!  We had a delightful dinner (absolutely delicious -- I had mahi mahi and shrimp with cheese grits; Fred had prime rib), hearing about Cole in school and activities, and Joy and fiancé Jim's plans.   Jim is in the Coast Guard and works on the Outer Banks  - - we really enjoyed meeting him and wish Joy and Jim all the best.

Cole, Jim, and Joy

One of the things I have enjoyed most in cruising is seeing family that we have seen too little of over the years, due to distance and our busy lives.  It is wonderful to be able to orchestrate our travels to build in opportunities to reconnect.  While the bonds of family are always there, visiting in person deepens and enriches the relationships immeasurably.

Here we are -- fed, watered, and ready for the next adventure.  Little did we know!

Dorothy and Fred